It’s no wonder why Croatia has become a holiday-seekers refuge, turned hot spot, over the past few years.
The Italian-like coasts, with jagged cliffs and authentic roughness, mirror its dynamic history. Upon landing at the humble airport of Split, we are welcomed with signs bearing the European Union logo—a designation it earned just four years ago after years of negotiation and identification beyond its Yugoslavian roots. And, seeing the azur Adriatic waves lap upon the hundreds of islands that make up Croatia, it’s hard to believe the country was war torn just 15 years ago.
In the first week of July, as the tourist season and hot summer days begin, the only conflict in site is between restaurants waving in patrons as they trickle in from western Europe, the U.S. and beyond. Yet we refuse to fall victim. In this sea-faring land replete with Seafood staples, we stick to our own beat, on the vegan hunt.
Wednesday | Split to Hvar
Snacks | DM the German eco-oriented drugstore chain with vegan and gluten free snack options
Dinner on the go | Vege Fast Food, vegan sustenance on the go. With oyster mushrooms, tofu and seitan cooked in generous portions of oil, it’s the perfect indulgence when feeling starved with hunger after a flight.
Thursday | Hvar
Breakfast | Green Goodness Hvar, a newly minted juice bar, created by Julie, a lovely expat from Canada and the owners of Green House (below). In addition to fresh juices and smoothies, like my invigorating green juice, they also offer an assortment of vegan and gluten free sandwiches [pictured above] and other small raw and vegan snacks for when you’re simply craving a healthy dose of nutrition.
Lunch & Snacks | Green House, Hvar’s natural health food shop, and a gem, at that, with a healthy selection of German biological and vegan options for your island-hopping and picnicking around the islands of Hvar.
Groceries & Provisions | Konzum, a leading conventional grocery chain, with vegan cheese and gluten free bread to boot
Dinner | Fig Cafe Bar, a mediterranean style meets Aussie-American (the owners) kitchen, with vegan options upon order. While far from the best in regards to food and service, it gave us sustenance and new friends while dining outdoors under the warm summer dusk.
Drinks | ka’lavanda, a sleek yet cozy outdoor cocktail bar and indoor music club in the old city. Order at your own vegan risk, as the wines and beers are not (unsurprisingly) disclosed as being vegan
Friday | Hvar & Korcula
Farm fresh provisions | The local farmer’s market—full of figs, cherries, lemons and more—borders the old city and is near the Konzum in Hvar town. Ask a local for directions if you’re not able to find it, as I’m sorry to say I can not recall or find the address [produce pictured above].
Dinner | Konoba Mareta, one of the only vegan-friendly spots in the ancient city of Korcula and delicious at that. With over 75% (according to the restaurant) of its vegetables coming from a local ‘eco farm’, we experienced a new take on local delights, include tofu, roasted vegetables and Croatian wine. It was bar far the best meal we had in Croatia.
Saturday | Korcula & Badija
Picnic fare | The local Konzum supermarket was again replete with a decent assortment of vegan grocery fare, including rice cakes, vegan spreads and dark chocolate to boot.
Dinner | Aterina, one of the only other spots in Korcula that can serve up vegan dishes upon request, I had a simple chick pea salad for dinner that felt more like an appetizer, yet provided staple nutrition, followed by candied peaches for dessert. While a casual spot, make a reservation or show up early for dinner in the peak summer season.
Sunday | Dubrovnic & Lokrum
A tourist hot spot, thanks to its fame as the home of King’s Landing in the hit Netflix series, “Game of Thrones”, tourists flooded the streets on the hunt for seemingly everything but vegan food.
After scouring the streets for healthy fare and asking around, the only health food shops were well outside the old city limits. In the end, we settled on an Indian restaurant, often a safe bet (sans the milk and cream).
Lunch & Dinner | Incredible India, a cozy Indian restaurant tucked along a side street in the old city center, with a couple of small tables for dining el fresco. We ordered an extra-spicy chana masala, which while heavier than the authentic (my husband’s from India) versions we’re accustomed to, it did the satiation trick.
Monday | Split
As we took a long bus ride back from Dubrovnik to Split to catch our flight home, we were filled with Adriatic culture, the sun and the sea, yet with room in our stomachs for more hearty vegan fare. Perhaps that’s the best beach vacation in the end—the Vitamin D diet.
Happy hunting in Croatia!
For your quick reference, here’s a summary of our culinary choices as we journeyed through the islands of Croatia:
Split
DM the German eco-oriented drugstore chain | Spinciceva 2b, Split, Croatia
Vege Fast Food for quick, blood-sugar sustaining vegan food on the go | Nadhodnik B.B., Split, Croatia
Note: there are other recommended veggie-friendly spots online. And, given our short time in Split (for transit) this is the only spot we experienced.
Hvar
Green House |Kroz Burak 27 Hvar, Splitsko-Dalmatinska, Croatia
Green Goodness Hvar | 1 Kroz Burak Hvar, Splitsko-Dalmatinska, Croatia
Fig Cafe Bar | Biundovica 3, Hvar 21450, Splitsko-Dalmatinska, Croatia
ka’lavanda | Dr Mate Milcicia 7, Hvar, Croatia
Korcula
Konoba Mareta | Ulica Sv Roka 4, Korcula, Croatia
Aterina | Trg Korculanskih Klesara i Kipara 2, Korcula, Croatia
Dubrovnik
Incredible India | Vetranićeva ul. 6, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
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